The electric bass is usually tuned E–A–D–G, an octave below the lowest four strings of a guitar. In most bands it links the rhythm to the harmony. The choices below change how it does that: how punchy or growling it sounds, how low it reaches, and how it feels under the hands.
Pickup layouts
| Layout | Pickups | Sound | Feel and notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Precision-style | One split-coil pickup, its two halves offset | Punchy, focused midrange that sits well in a band; one core sound | Neck often wider at the nut, about 1.75 in |
| Jazz-style | Two single-coil pickups, at the neck and the bridge | Wider range of tones; the bridge pickup alone gives a tight, growling sound | Neck slimmer at the nut, about 1.5 in |
| Humbucker-equipped | One or two humbuckers, often near the bridge | Aggressive, punchy and bright; quiet | Often paired with active electronics |
The two halves of a Precision-style pickup are wired as a hum-cancelling pair, so it stays quiet. A Jazz-style pair cancels hum only when both pickups are on at equal volume; either one alone hums like any single-coil. Many basses combine the two layouts, with a split-coil in the middle and a single-coil at the bridge.
Four, five or six strings
| Strings | Usual tuning | What it adds | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Four | E–A–D–G | The standard range on the narrowest neck | Lowest note is E |
| Five | B–E–A–D–G | A low B, matching down-tuned guitars and synth bass | Wider neck; the low B needs enough tension to stay clear |
| Six | B–E–A–D–G–C | A low B and a high C, for chords and solo lines | Widest neck; more strings to mute |
Some five-strings are tuned E–A–D–G–C instead, adding a high string rather than a low one. More strings also mean more muting work: unplayed strings must be kept quiet with the fretting and plucking hands.
Scale length
On a bass, a longer scale means more string tension at the same pitch, so the low notes sound firmer and more defined; a short scale brings the frets closer together and the strings feel slacker under the fingers.
| Scale | Length | Feel and sound |
|---|---|---|
| Short | about 30 in | Closer frets, lower tension, easier reach; a rounder, thumpier tone |
| Medium | about 32 in | Between short and long |
| Long | 34 in | The common standard; tight and defined |
| Extra-long | 35 in or more | Used on some five- and six-strings to tighten the low B |
A short-scale bass suits smaller hands and younger players, and it is also chosen for its sound. Strings must match the scale: a set made for a 34-inch bass will not necessarily fit a 30-inch one.
Fretted and fretless
A fretless bass has a smooth fingerboard, sometimes with inlaid lines where the frets would be. Notes are placed by ear, as on an upright bass, and the string sounding against the wood gives a singing, vocal tone with smooth slides between notes. It demands accurate intonation, so it is usually learned after a fretted bass. Flatwound or similar smooth strings are common on fretless basses because they wear the fingerboard less.
Passive and active electronics
A passive bass has no battery. Its pickups feed volume and tone controls, and the tone control can only cut treble.
An active bass adds a battery-powered preamp, usually 9 V. Its EQ can boost as well as cut bass, mids and treble, and its stronger, lower-impedance output copes well with long cables. An active bass falls silent when the battery runs out unless it has a passive mode. Passive electronics are simpler; active ones put more tonal control on the instrument itself.
Headless and acoustic basses
Headless basses move the tuning machines to the bridge end of the body. The instrument is shorter, lighter and often better balanced on a strap, and some designs need specific strings.
An acoustic bass guitar has a hollow body like a large acoustic guitar. Unplugged, it is quiet next to a strummed guitar, so most have a pickup for playing with others. It suits rehearsal and acoustic sessions.
Strings
| Type | Construction | Sound | Feel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Roundwound | Round wire wrapped around the core | Bright, long sustain, clear harmonics; the modern default | Textured; more finger noise; wears frets faster |
| Halfwound / groundwound | Roundwound with the outer surface ground flatter | Between roundwound and flatwound | Smoother than roundwound |
| Flatwound | Flat ribbon wire wrapped around the core | Warm, deep thump with shorter sustain; the classic sound of 1960s soul and of reggae | Smooth, very little finger noise; long-lasting |
| Tapewound | Nylon or similar tape over a wound string | Dark and soft, closer to an upright bass | Very smooth |
Gauge matters as well: heavier sets have more tension and a bigger low end, lighter sets are easier on the hands. Changing gauge a lot changes the pull on the neck, so the bass may need a small setup adjustment afterwards.
Getting advice
Choosing a first bass, or working out whether your strings or setup are what is holding you back, is easier with the instrument in hand: bring it to the free intro visit. Bass lessons describes the lessons, and guitar and bass amps the amp side.
Questions
Should a beginner start on a four-string or a five-string bass?
A four-string covers most bass parts on the narrowest neck, so it is the usual starting point. A five-string makes sense from the start when the music regularly goes below E, as in some metal, gospel and modern pop.
